HANGUK

South Korea 한국

September 2024

Photos by Seer Oon Hor

Words by Seer & Shu Li

Recently, we had the opportunity to discover the dynamic allure of South Korea, where ancient traditions harmoniously blend with cutting-edge modernity. From the bustling streets of Seoul, adorned with neon lights and vibrant markets, to the serene beauty of historical sites like Gyeongbokgung Palace, the country offers a diverse tapestry of experiences. We managed to indulge in the rich flavours of Korean cuisine, from savoury barbecue to appetising kimchi and the variety of banchans , as we explored local eateries and street food stalls. We ventured from the urban landscape of Seoul city to the picturesque mountains of Seoraksan National Park. With a rich cultural heritage, welcoming locals, and an efficient transport network, South Korea invites travellers to uncover its unique charm and uncover unforgettable memories.

SEOUL

Fulfilling our souls.

Seoul, the vibrant capital of South Korea, offers a unique blend of traditional culture and modern innovation that captivates visitors. We strolled through historic palaces such as Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung, where we witnessed the changing of the guard ceremony; and explored the streets of ancient Bukchon Hanok Village, which featured beautifully preserved hanok (traditional Korean houses). The bustling districts of Myeongdong and Dongdaemun are perfect for shopping and sampling local street food, while the serene Namsan Park provides stunning views of the city from the iconic N Seoul Tower. With its efficient public transport system, we navigated between Seoul’s rich cultural heritage and its cutting-edge technology, making it a must-visit destination.

It was Chuseok when we explored Seoul. Chuseok is a major celebration of mid-autumn harvest festival. It was predictably but uniquely quiet in the city centre with most shops closed. Although the entrance to the palaces are very affordable, the palaces were free to enter during Chuseok. There are so many beautiful palaces to explore in Seoul city centre. Gyeongbokgung Palace from Joseon Dynasty is certainly a main attraction. Grounds are expansive and the architecture details are intricate. During Chuseok there were many traditional activities such as traditional games and traditional food making. We participated in a traditional calligraphy lesson led by a Korean ‘master’ who taught us basic painting strokes.

The weather was hot and humid whilst we were there. There were tourists visiting during the day but as night falls, the were many more locals about. There was an ‘open library’ event where locals were reading by the river. There was a string trio providing Disney-themed live music as well as food stalls. We felt that Seoul is a lively and sociable city with nice and polite people. What a comfortable and safe city to travel.

The capital of ancient Silla dynasty.

GYEONGJU

Gyeongju, in southeastern South Korea, is famous for its cultural heritage and historical importance. It was once the capital of the Silla Kingdom, which lasted almost a thousand years, earning it the nickname "museum without walls" for its many ancient sites like royal tombs, temples, and palaces. Key UNESCO sites like Bulguksa Temple showcased remarkable Buddhist art and architecture. The city also boasts beautiful scenery, with Namsan Mountain enhancing its archaeological wonders, making it appealing to history buffs and nature lovers.

Gyeongju is home to many royal tombs from the Silla dynasty, which ruled Korea for nearly a millennium. It features over 200 tombs, with the Daereungwon complex being the most notable, where kings and queens rest in lush green mounds. These tombs, known for their unique keyhole shapes, offer insights into the Silla people's burial customs and beliefs. Surrounding them are various ancient artifacts like gold crowns, pottery, and textiles, showcasing the era's art and craftsmanship. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Gyeongju's tombs remain a significant point of interest for historians and visitors, highlighting Korea's rich history.

BUSAN

A city by the sea.

Busan is South Korea’s second-largest metropolis where stunning coastlines seamlessly meet rich cultural heritage and history. We stayed at the picturesque beach of Haeundae, perfect for sunbathing, leisurely seaside strolls, and breathtaking sunsets. However, the weather was not on our side. It rained continuously for 2 out of the 3 days we were there. We managed to visit Jagalchi Fish Market, and the colourful and captivating Gamcheon Culture Village, renowned for its artistic murals and charming, winding alleyways that invite exploration, both in the rain. We also visited Haedong Yonggungsa, uniquely set on a rocky coast with breathtaking backdrop of lush forest. With its dynamic blend of modernity and tradition, Busan offers something appealing for every traveller, making it a must-visit destination.

We indulged in a Korean teahouse experience at Bibibidang where we had tea and pumpkin-based snacks in a beautiful classically decorated interior with a panoramic view of Busan Bay.

SEORAKSAN

Mountain of myths and legends.

Seoraksan National Park in northeastern South Korea is famous for its natural beauty and cultural heritage. Ulsanbawi is rock formation in the national park. Legend has it that Ulsanbawi walked from Ulsan, a city south east of Korea, to represent the city. However, it arrived late and there was no room. Therefore it made its way back south. It slept in Seorak area and it felt the area was so beautiful it decided to stay put for good.

The park features impressive granite peaks, such as Daecheongbong, and hiking trails ranging from easy to difficult, it suits all outdoor lovers. Seoraksan is home to over 1,500 plant species and various animals, including some that are rare. Cultural sites like the ancient Sinheungsa Temple add to its charm.

SOKCHO

The gateway to Seoraksan.

Sokcho is a lively coastal city in eastern South Korea, famous for its beautiful scenery and rich culture. Located near Seoraksan National Park, it features stunning landscapes of mountains and clean beaches. The city is also known for fresh seafood, especially at the busy Sokcho Fish Market, where local vendors sell a variety of fish.

Abai Village in Sokcho is a historic community established post-Korean War, primarily inhabited by North Korean defectors. The village features traditional Korean houses and is well-known for its seafood and Abai sundae, a blood sausage with sticky rice and vegetables. Abai Village embodies resilience and community, offering a peaceful escape in Sokcho.

Korean cuisine from full-course meal to bitesized snacks

HANSIK

Food is certainly one of the main attractions when we explore a new country. In many parts of Asia, it can be considered part of a country’s cultural identity. Traditional Korean food is characterised by its bold flavours and vibrant presentation, reflecting the country’s rich culinary heritage. Central to Korean cuisine is the concept of balance, often achieved through a variety of side dishes known as banchan, which accompany the main meal. Staples such as rice, vegetables, and meats are commonly found in dishes like bibimbap—a mixed rice bowl topped with assorted vegetables, meat, and gochujang (chilli paste)—and bulgogi, marinated beef grilled to perfection. Fermented foods, notably kimchi, play a crucial role in the diet, offering both flavour and health benefits. Emphasis on seasonal ingredients and communal dining further enriches the experience of enjoying Korean food, making it both nourishing and socially engaging. Typically this is called Hanjeongsik which is a full-course meal in Korean cuisine. There are usually several main dishes with many banchan (side dishes), which is why the table is commonly full.

Another typical Korean meal is Korean barbecue which the cut and quality of meat is the star of the show. Hanwoo (Korean beef) and Jeju Black Pork are considered the premium cuts but you may also find common cuts in everyday Korean BBQ restaurants.

We had amazing experiences with naengmyoen especially with the warm and humid weather during our travel. For this dish, the one from Cheong-Onchae stood out. The soup was clear but full of flavour. The beef tartare was fresh and soft. Teamed with fresh crunch vegetables, it was a delight for a warm day.

Another world-famous Korean food is Korean fried chicken, commonly known as K-FC, not to be confused with the other American giant chain. Korean fried chicken in our opinion is better in many ways. For example it is crunchier and crispier, less salty and the meat texture is better. There are simply too many fried chicken restaurants across South Korea. We sampled one from a common chain and another from a local restaurant. They were both mouth-wateringly masisseoyo.

Korea is also known for their seafood which you often find restaurants above a wet market selling fresh seafood. From the snack point of view, the options are endless. From savoury to sweet. From something fancy to something you grab on the go. You will find something which surprises you.

With increasing western influences, Koreans have mastered the art of baking breads, making soft spongy fresh cream cakes and have a distinctive style of coffees. Based on our personal experience, the croissant and chestnut bread in Cafe Onion (long queue!) stood out. The croissant was flaky but not too crumbly. The chestnut bread has a really crispy exterior and soft interior (imagine down pillow) with chestnut paste which did not overpower the taste of the bread.

The classics are made well but modern-style coffee in South Korea is slightly different than what you may find in the western world. The Korean styles tend to involve cream and is sweeter. It is certainly worth a try but personally, I prefer the classics. However, on the tea side, ssanghwa-cha is my favourite. It is a traditional Korean tea brewed with ginger, jujube and other Asian herbs.

There was much to explore, taste and experience in South Korea. We merely scraped the surface. I guess we found more reasons to go back in the future. The photos do not show any justice to the food but it was certainly an amazing memory to cherish.

We felt South Korea is a safe and an amazing country to visit. Despite the language barrier, most locals did their best to make us feel welcomed. Korean food was one of the highlights and we thoroughly enjoyed the historic sites and the nature of the far east. Visiting during Chuseok was an interesting experience where we could appreciate more what Koreans do during their traditional celebration.

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